| BAGS Since
there are many different types of bags and combinations of materials, care must
be used to insure good results in cleaning and restoration. Leather
– The same methods as described for shoes can be used. If absolutely necessary
to use dye, be sure to buff the bag thoroughly and use Lexol afterward. Test on
a rag to be certain nothing will rub off on your good clothes. Cloth
– Includes cotton crochet, linen, and other washable fabrics. Follow instructions
given in article on Care of Antique Garments for washing and sunning if white.
If colored but faded, the bag may be re-tinted or if badly stained dyed a darker
color. Dyeing can be tricky, and the color may turn out too bright, so remove
from the dye a little before you think it’s the right shade. Bags of silk
(either crochet or fabric) should be cleaned in cleaning fluid such as Varsol,
again as described in Garments article. Beaded
– All types (solid beads and designs on fabrics) may be cleaned in Varsol.
The silver frames on most of these may be shined using any good silver polish,
or the treated dry cloth type is good where there may be danger of getting water
or polish on a non-washable fabric. If some of the dangly bead trim If
gone off the bottom of one of these purses, the only cure is to remove all of
them and re-string, redistributing them evenly. If the purse has a rounded by
bottom, you may be able to snitch the uppermost ones to fill in the gaps, if not
too many are missing. Some of these beads are too small for even a beading needle
(heaven only knows how they were strung in the first place) – if yours are,
stiffen the tip of the thread with nail polish, and use this as a needle. from
Claire Crofts | | HATS Since
authentic hats are so difficult to find, those you do have deserve the very best
of care. You will find a stock-pile of authentic ribbons, flowers, feathers, etc.
invaluable, since so many old hats seem to have been stripped of their trimmings,
or the trims are crushed beyond repair. For absolute authenticity, use only silk,
velvet, or cotton trims, never rayon or nylon. If the hat is totally devoid of
trim, study old magazines of the appropriate period for ideas. Most
velvet and velour-type hats seem to be made over a buckram base, and if
these are crushed out of shape, they can often be helped by steaming from above
and pushing gently underneath, holding in the proper shape until cool. Dust and
lint may be removed by gentle use of a soft clothes brush. Steaming also helps
revive any crushed spots in the velvet – brush against flattened area gently
with a toothbrush while still damp. Lingerie
hats must be completely dismantled in order to be sure the frame does not rust
when it is washed, and ruin the covering. This is quite a job, and if it will
be some time before the hat will be reconstructed, a sketch should be made, with
measurements, so that you can be sure everything goes back on correctly. Straw
hats may be cleaned by using a wet toothbrush, getting down into all the little
cracks. If the straw is of more than one color, be careful not to get it too wet,
and only work on one color at a time, to avoid running the colors together. from
Claire Crofts
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| PARASOLS Those
of washable fabrics may be laundered either by removing the cover from the frame
(risky, it could shrink), or by leaving it on and placing strips of plastic between
the ribs and fabric, to prevent rusting on the material. Mix a solution of liquid
detergent and warm water, adding a little Biz if the parasol is white and fairly
soiled. Take outside (don’t try this on a windy day), open, and wash gently
with a brush, giving careful attention to any spots and those outer folds. Let
soak a little while, then rinse well with the hose. Let dry in the sun, re-wetting
occasionally if very yellow. For the final drying, prop in a semi-open, slightly
stretched position, as if allowed to dry fully stretched, it will have an unnatural
shape when closed. Silk or other non-washable fabrics may be cleaned with Varsol. from
Claire Crofts
Return
to Top of Pag | | SHOES They
are one item that cannot easily be reproduced, changed, or made more comfortable,
so it is really in one’s own best interests to take the best possible care
of those that fit. Recently, an article stated that neatsfoot oil eventually rots
leather, in addition to the impossibility of ever getting the leather to shine
again after it’s use. The very best product (please forgive the plug) is
Lexol, available at many leather shops and shoe repair shops. It should be used
as directed on the bottle. It’s also excellent to use on any other leather,
such as car seats, although you may ha e to hide the bottle once your husband
discovers how great it is! Use it at least once a year on each pair of shoes,
soles and all, to keep them soft and supple, applying more often if shoes are
worn fairly frequently. Since the "quick shine" types of polishes are
too drying for use on old leathers, be sure to use only natural types. Dyes are
also hard on leather, and most will crack where the shoe flexes, so if at all
possible, try to leave the shoes their natural color. Shoes should be stuffed
with tissue paper, placed in a plastic bag or cardboard box, and stored in a cool,
dark place. A good shoe repairman can fix soles when needed, and put taps on the
toe points to prevent excessive wear. from
Claire Crofts
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